Filippo Grazioli on First Missoni Womenswear Show at Milan Fashion Week – WWD

MILAN — Filippo Grazioli smiles lightheartedly as he discusses his spring collection for Missoni and poses for photos for an exclusive preview at the brand’s Milan showroom.

His cheerful and friendly demeanor is reflected in his cheerful and youthful designs – no doubt in line with his mission to rejuvenate the brand.

After a men’s debut last June, Grazioli will host his first women’s fashion show for Missoni at Milan’s Bocconi University on Friday, with a set inspired by artists who often use light as a material, such as South Korean Kimsooja or American James turrell

Light is indeed a key focus for Grazioli’s collection, with colors refracted as if in a prism. Grazioli worked primarily with black and white, primary yellow, magenta, and cyan, which he says are “the foundation of every kind of nuance.” Sequins and studs added light to several looks, such as B. a magenta skirt with shiny metal buttons on the side.

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The designer has great respect for Missoni’s history, but after unveiling his Resort collection in June, Grazioli felt he could be bolder and “have more fun” with the spring collection.

For example, he introduced some transparencies, aware of the connection with the past but translating them for the future. “That influenced me [founders] Rosita and Ottavio Missoni were banned from exhibiting in Florence after presenting their 1967 collection [as part of the Sala Bianca designers] was deemed too scandalous,” Grazioli recalled. The trigger for the incident was the Missonis’ decision to present the collection on models without bras because they arrived in the wrong color and the exposed breasts underneath the garments caused a stir at the time.

Fast forward to today, sure, no one is going to argue, and in any case, the collection is never vulgar and the transparencies quite sophisticated.

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Born in Dubrovnik and perhaps influenced by his summer holidays in Croatia, where the patriarch and his wife once sailed, Ottavio Missoni Grazioli revisited the past by reworking Rosita’s use of the bustier – enlivened by the brand’s flames and zigzag lines Sample.

However, the designer limited himself to using the Missoni codes and patterns, juxtaposing them with color block details or over-sizing them as a single element on a dress and updating them in new weights and techniques – the brand’s craftsmanship is always evident.

Also new were knotted and draped fabrics that added movement to body-hugging dresses, and sexy fringed skirts.

Short or long, the silhouette was vertical, fitted, and “body-conscious,” Grazioli said, as one of his goals was to “accentuate the female body.”

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A graduate of Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design, Grazioli, who joined Missoni in March, began his career in Paris. During an internship at Staff International, he met Martin Margiela and worked with the designer on the women’s collections until 2013. In 2015, after a stint as head women’s designer at Hermès, he made another important personal encounter when he met Riccardo Tisci and director of collections at Givenchy. Grazioli then followed Tisci to become director of catwalk collections at Burberry.

The change in creative direction at Missoni is part of the five-year plan unveiled by Chief Executive Officer Livio Proli, who joined the company from Giorgio Armani Group in 2020 after Italian fund FSI took a 41.2% stake in the family-owned fashion house in 2018 .

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