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When it comes to fashion, and fashion week in particular, the industry tries to maintain a delicate balance between longevity and trends. Designers work to create collections that are related to their previous work, while still breaking down a barrier of sorts, pushing their designs forward and inspiring a new season of style. As new designer collections launch around the world during fashion month, we’re beginning to see clear fashion trends for 2023. Among TikTok’s ‘hot takes’ on Fashion Week, an analysis of subtle reactions from Anna Wintour (she appeared to be enjoying the Tom Ford show ) and many designers’ feeble attempts to bring realistic body types to the runway, we are left with a jumble of opinions, criticisms and questions. But when it comes to trends, there’s one question that takes top priority – would you wear it?
As consumers, we then go through the same tug-of-war of trends as designers, only on the receiving end. Do we want to be ambitious or realistic? Shall we shop for now? Exhilarating, if possibly fleeting. Or are we shopping for the future? Curated forever, at the risk of playing it safe. Spoiler alert: there is no right answer.
Being hyper-aware of trends and the evolving landscape of your own closet means being a conscious consumer. Spotting trends from the runway before they hit your Instagram feed means being a conscious consumer. The current state of the trend cycle is moving at a dizzying pace – it feels inevitable to be caught up in the current. The art of fashion and building your personal style comes when the wearer consciously participates in and chooses to follow trends selectively participate. No designer incorporates every upcoming trend into their collections, and frankly, you shouldn’t either.
That being said, the fashion trends for 2023 are across the board. From a continuation of controversial low-rise options and an influx of overly see-through slips to heavy leather skirts and delicate dip-dye hues, New York Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 23 collections create a choose-your-own adventure game plan. You can scroll through every trend, but only a few are realistically likely to make it into your closet. I’ve rounded up the top 7 trends from New York Fashion Week for you to make your choice.
Tory Burch, Kim Shui, Jason Wu; iMaxTree.
Pure genius
Every once in a while, a trend from a single show will spark a wave of similar styles. In this case, the trend in question is transparent and the trendsetter is Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection. The Fendi collection debuted back in February, but its impact was fully felt in New York City last week. It’s no longer taboo for underwear to show through your dress—in fact, it’s preferred. Almost every major collection on the NYFW runways featured fully see-through garments. Tory Burch offered a master class in realistically wearable sheer clothing with strategic layering, while designers like Kim Shui took the opportunity to bare it all.
While many of the sheer pieces would be appropriate for street style statements or a night out in a dimly lit room, Jason Wu gave us several examples of sheer design in formal wear. The designer sent a wide range of sheer dresses in floral, glitter, lace and jewel tones (to name a few) down the runway. In a backstage interview with Jason Wu minutes before his show, he said: “Of course there will always be dreamy gowns, but you may see a sexy side of Jason Wu that you may not be as familiar with – but get used to it .”
Bevza, Bronx & Banco, dolls and dolls; iMaxTree.
Total tassels
Remember when feathers lined every sleeve and hem? Well, they’ve officially been replaced by tassels and fringes. Tassel trim is traditionally neutral toned, making it a great option for minimalists and a variety of designers. Brands from Bevza (known for sophisticated neutrals) to Bronx and Banco, a party-goer haunt, have opted for long fringes.
In an exclusive interview with Bronx and Banco designer Natalie De’Banco, I got a glimpse of the shift from the luxe nightlife aesthetic we saw in her Fall/Winter ’22 collection to the earth-toned glamor we wanted for the See Spring/Summer ’23, “Because our resort collection was super bright and colourful, we keep the palate neutral and Calming down with blacks and beige. In any case, there will be no shortage of colour. We use splashes of electric peach, lipstick coral and Neon lime to make the collection more exciting.”
The textured tassel trim will be the ultimate party trick in Spring 2023, but there’s no reason you have to wait to wear the trend. Tassels and fringes look incredible when paired with a neutral sweater, hung on suede boots, and draped on the back of a heavy leather or suede jacket.
Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Tom Ford; iMaxTree.
Leather lengths
Leather jackets have been a staple of fashion week for decades and this season was no exception. Heavy (and colorful) leather jackets have been spotted at Coach, but the trend has been staged with a more playful iteration: leather skirts. From mini to maxi, leather skirts swung down the runway at NYFW. Designers like Altuzarra took the style longer and more structured, while designers like TK kept it short and sweet. Since leather is traditionally a fall and winter textile, it’s nice to see a piece that works all year round. The style goes well with everything, so this is definitely a trend worth investing in for 2023
Tom Ford, Carolina Herrera, PatBo; iMaxTree.
Ah yes, inclines
Cutouts were everywhere last summer, most notably a double slanted neckline (as seen in this viral Cult Gaia dress). Necklines continued to dominate formal wear on New York’s runways, but this time designers chose a side. One-sided slanted necklines were everywhere and on everyone – Gigi Hadid rocked the look at Tom Ford and Karlie Kloss wore a one-shoulder iteration at Carolina Herrera. The style is a great way to accentuate your waist, show a little skin and elevate any plain dress.
Tibi, Sandy Liang, Peter Do; iMaxTree.
High stakes, low rise
According to designers, the boardroom may be redesigned. Low-rise suit options were all over the place on some of NYFW’s most anticipated runways, including Tibi, Sandy Liang and Peter Do. The two-piece suit has been trending for the last two years and thankfully isn’t going anywhere. while you can Absolutely Still wear your regular or high-waisted pants, designers are giving low-rise fans a third option. Low-rise pants follow the low-rise jean trend with an exceptionally short inseam. This gives them a tailored look rather than baggy (however, if you like a baggy look, just match regular pants and wear them lower on your waist).
Coach, Maya Seyferth, Sandy Liang; iMaxTree.
city school girl
Now, if you visit Manhattan’s Lower East Side, you’ll see a strong presence of the urban school aesthetic. The look takes elements of the low-key, girly school aesthetic (plaid skirts, ruffled collars, and pink bows) and fuses them with street-style grunge (heavy piercings, cleated shoes, and mesh layering). In the heart of the neighborhood, you’ll also find Sandy Liang’s storefront—with street views and a front-row view of the aesthetic she helped create. It’s no wonder that Sandy Liang’s Spring ’23 collection of pastel mini dresses with a girly grunge vibe was a direct reflection of the area. Liang paired the looks with ballet flats (the trend is here to stay!) or sleek, sporty sneakers. Similar versions of the ensemble were also seen on Coach and Maya Seyferth. If you’re keen on creating your own take on the city school aesthetic, I’d recommend browsing the shelves at your local vintage store first.
Peter Do, Ulla Johnson, Altuzarra; iMaxTree.
Dressed Up Dip Dye
It seems like just yesterday we were all wearing homemade tie-dye tracksuits out of quarantine-related boredom. Designers seem to think enough time has passed to overcome any tie-dye burnout and have introduced a dressier take on the 2023 trend with Dip-Dye. Dip-dye encompasses the same multicolored color story as tie-dye without all the neon swirls. The muted ombré colors add a unique look to garments and popped up naturally on Ulla Johnson’s boho runway and, surprisingly, on Peter Dos. Although dip-dye may seem like a more casual trend, designers like Altuzarra have upgraded the look to formal attire with dip-dyed dresses.
